![]() If you have a heater that uses outside air for combustion, and you use no outside to heat up. That means some of your warm moist air is going up the chimney, and the cold air coming in the cabin to replace it has less water in it (because its cold), and as warmed up its relative humidity decreases. Any heater that gets its combustion air from the cabin is going to dry the boat because you are replacing that air with cold outside air. Anything you burn, if the exhaust gas leaves the boat by the chimney you can't be adding water to the boat. As long as there's a chimney this makes no sense to me. ![]() I see this from many people, and originally read it in Don Street's books. Send a pm if you want more detail as to install etc. Starting from scratch I would spend the $ on a better heater. I stuck with it since I did not have an instal option to accomidate the stack lenght for one of the better closed flame heaters, and becuase it was already on the boat. ![]() It will take the edge off the cold on shoulder seasons, but does not truly heat the boat in winter. It has a thermocuple to shut off the fuel if it goes out, and some type of shut off for oxygen depletion that I would not trust. ![]() I converted mine to propane using a kit sold for that porpose, for me it was a great upgrade. The burners tend to clog over time and they have a tiny built in pin that will clear it. ![]() Either way if something goes bad the fuel will just keep on flowing, so it can not be left alone EVER. It was fed by a pressurized tank, but gravity feed is an option. Once up and ruining it was ok, but could flare and smoke. To start it you had to pre heat with alcohol in a tray below the burner, getting that done without sloping burning fuel was a chore in anything other than flat calm. I had the original kero force 10 on my boat (T30). ![]()
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